Leslie’s Blog

September 30, 2007

hippie…part nine…Big Bend

Filed under: hippie, language, stories — Leslie @ 9:37 am

jalapenos

“I’m hungry.”

“Me, too.”

“Let’s try Mexican food!”

Neither of us had ever eaten Mexican food, ever. 

We were in Marathon, Texas, on our way down into Big Bend, and from the looks of the map, this was going to be our last chance at ‘civilization’ for awhile.

“There’s a place!” I said excitedly.

The white painted cinder block, one story building was covered in words we didn’t understand, but we guessed it was advertising the specialties being offered inside.

Tamales we understood.  Restaurant we understood.

“Jalopy-nose,” I said. “I want to try that!”

I pronounced it ‘jalopy’, like the old car, and ‘nose’, like the on your face breathing thingey.  With a “J” sound, too.  Yes, I did.

The restaurant was a medium sized room, with about six oilclothed tables pushed up against the walls, and a few more tables in the center of the room. No one was there. We could hear someone in the kitchen. The floor fan blew warm air around, and with it, enticing smells. We sat down at one of the tables against the wall.

“Howdy,” came a voice from a handsome young man who had emerged from the kitchen, wearing a full length apron, carrying an order pad, pencil at the ready. “What can I get ya?” he asked.

“We have never had Mexican food before. What do you recommend?”  Mike asked.

Now, that sort of inquiry would seem inconsequential in a Manhattan restaurant, but we weren’t there. We were in a restaurant where you should already be familiar with what was on the menu. Very familiar.

The handsome young man looked surprised for a moment.

“The carne asada is good.” he said, glancing back at the kitchen. 

Of course  we asked what that was. 

 He must have thought that he had encountered gringo and gringa deluxe!  He continued to politely and patiently help us make menu choices.

“I want to have an order of Jalopy-nose.” I said.   Yes, I did.

OhhhhJalapenos.”  the young man said, after a moment of contemplation.

” Are you sure?” he asked.

“Yes. I would like Jalopenos.” I insisted, emboldened by my foray into Mexican culinary adventure.

“OK…,”  he said.  At some point his polite and patient demeanor had to have taken on a devilish delight.

He disappeared into the kitchen.

Our food arrived quickly. We were the only ones in the place, but it arrived quickly nonetheless. Heaping plates of steaming beans and rice and meat were set in front of us. It smelled heavenly!

“Which is the Jalopenos?” I asked.

He pointed to a small bowl of six, grey green, juicy, fruits at my elbow. “That’s not a very big order,” I thought to myself.

“They are HOT.”  he said.  I felt the dish gingerly.  It was cold.   “Spicy,”  he said, and returned quietly to the kitchen, where we heard him being busy.

We were hungry! We tried the meat and beans and rice, and tortillas from the basket.

I took one of the jalapenos in my fingers, and bit it in half. I chewed. I choked. I gasped. I choked. I drank water. I coughed. I drank more water. My eyes watered.  I tried very hard not to make too much noise in the empty restaurant. That only made it worse.

It took quite a bit to regain my composure.

I decided for the moment that I didn’t think that I liked my choice of jalapenos, but I had  insisted.  There was no way I was going to leave that order there, uneaten, for that handsome young man to see.

We ate just about all the food, except for the five and a half peppers, and then…”Could we get a box for the rest of this, to go?”  Mike asked.  I looked at him with my very watery eyes, and wanted to kiss him with my spicy hot lips!

The young man brought the box, and asked, “Where are you folks headed from here?”

“We are going down into Big Bend.” said Mike.

“Very nice down there.” said the nice young man.

We paid the check, left a nice tip, and walked out to the van with our ‘to-go’ box.

It took a while to drive into Big Bend. The handsome young man was right. It was very nice down here. We made it to the Basin camp area, and sat on the bumper of the van.

We had decided that the motorcycle would be safe here, out of the van tonight, and Mike rolled it out onto the dirt. We crawled into the back of the van, and into the sleeping bag, and settled into one another for a nice sleep.

Within no time, the Mexican food began to work its unique methane magic, the potent combination of beans and jalopy-nose! We burst forth from the sleeping bag first, unable to lovingly tolerate the other. Then we burst forth from the van altogether.

I spent another night under the big Texas starry sky, again with watery eyes.

hippie…part eight…Hill Country

Filed under: earth, hippie, stories — Leslie @ 9:23 am

oat willies

We had been camping and fishing for a few days at Mansfield Dam, on Lake Travis, and now it was time to continue on the trip.

We stopped back into Austin for papers at Oat Willie’s, and more granola and brown rice from the whole food co-op. We said goodbye to Bill.  He really seemed confused about us leaving.  He consoled himself by saying, “You’ll be back.”

We headed out west through Hill Country. 

It is difficult to describe the change in the terrain. Abrupt is the only word that works.  From a rolling meandering,  Austin, abruptly into Hill Country.

Not just hills, but Hills and more Hills and more Hills.  Texas size Hills for Texas sized stretches of country. After an hour of Hill Country, I knew I was hopelessly lost in a wilderness, even though I was on a nicely paved highway. It was perception.

We drove through Johnson City. We wondered if we would see the President  if we drove by the ranch slowly. We didn’t.

We drove on through the evening.  Texas is big. We had been in the state for more than a week now, and were still not anywhere near being through it.  It , too, has a magnetic vortex all it’s own, sort of like the New York metropolitan area.

Mike liked to fish whenever he had the opportunity. We stopped at the west side of the Llano River for the evening.  We didn’t set up a tent.  Mike fished. He didn’t catch anything.

It had gotten dark, and we tried to sleep in the back of the van. It was so cramped. Mike’s dirt bike motorcycle took up a large portion of the floor space. We were tired. We were getting on each others nerves. We flailed around, tensions became palpable. We exploded from the back of the van like wolves from a release trap.

“Why don’t you move the bike outside for tonight?” I said.

“Someone will steal it!” Mike said.

“No they won’t!” I whined.  I really didn’t care at that point if someone did.  Selfish of me, yes.

“I don’t care if they do !” I heard myself saying, in a spoiled brat voice, and then I  stomped my foot.  Yes, I did.

It was not a good thing to say.  It was not a good voice to use to say it.  It was not a good time to stomp my foot.

The motorcycle stayed in the van for the night.  I positioned myself, by myself, on the ground in the sleeping bag, and looked up into the massive starry sky of Texas at night.

I cried.  And cried.  And cried.

September 29, 2007

comic interlude

Filed under: funny stories, hippie, language, stories — Leslie @ 3:12 pm

 black iron frying pan

“I need a black iron frying pan.”  I stated this almost at the outset of the trip.

I grew up using my mother’s black iron Wagnerware frying pan, and as far as I was concerned, that was the only type of cooking utensil a person should ever need.

We made it a point to stop and look in various hardware stores along the way.

I love hardware stores, and the small town stores we went into were some of the best mini-detours on the trip. We would find the housewares aisle, and look around. Nothing.

Oh, there were frying pans, alright. Teflon, and aluminum, and cast iron steel colored ones, but no black iron.

We stopped in more hardware stores than grocery stores. I was on a mission…I was going to find a black iron frying pan, or die trying.

Somewhere in Mississippi, either before or after Biloxi, I don’t recall exactly, we stopped into the umpteenth hardware store trying to fulfill my quest for a black iron frying pan. This time we tried a new  tactic…  instead of just us looking, we would ask the store clerk if they carried them!

 The helpful clerk said, “Yes, we have iron fry pans. Come with me.”

Well! Here was someone who knew his stock!  I felt sure we would momentarily succeed.

We followed as he led us to the housewares aisle we had just been looking on. “I must just be blind,” I thought to myself. “I surely didn’t see  one on this aisle.”

The clerk smartly bent down, picked up one of those steel colored frying pans, and said, “Here you go!”

I looked at him and said, “I was looking for a black  one.”

There was a moments pause, and with the nicest, most polite, kind, voice intonation, he said, “The black comes with use.”

I bought my black iron frying pan from that nice kind clerk in the hardware store in Mississippi.  I still use it every day, and more often than not, I think of him…

Leslie

September 28, 2007

hippie…part seven…Austin

Filed under: earth, hippie, stories — Leslie @ 5:43 pm

Mt. Bonnell 

“If you’re hungry,  The Smoothie Shop around the corner has great sandwiches and salads.”  was what the man at the shop named The Maharani told us.

The owner of the shop had come to Austin from New Jersey.  Princeton. 

I almost exploded with happiness and homesickness simultaneously. I hadn’t been out of New Jersey very long, but it truly felt as if I had been gone lifetimes. This person knew New Jersey, and Texas, too.   He explained to us about the Longhorns. He was very sweet and soft spoken, but did chuckle a bit as he told us. Not so much chuckling at us, I think, as chuckling at recognizing the culture shock we were experiencing, and feeling sympathy.

“They’ll light up the Tower Orange tonight!”  he said.

Bill had fallen in love with Austin, and had started a business here. The Maharani was a nifty little shop, occupying a 1930’s bungalow style house just off Congress Ave.  The front door of the shop was open, and there were windchimes and incense in the air.  Clothing from India,   African trade beads,   Huarache sandals,  and cotton blankets from Pakistan  and Afghanistan were for sale inside. Bill had travelled down into Central America by car, and had brought back amazing textiles from Guatemala. The whole shop just exploded with color, and texture, and the intoxicating scent of sandalwood.

“You can camp in any of the City parks for free, but if you don’t want to stay at the park, come up to Mt.Bonnell  for tonight. You can meet some really good people up there. My house is up there.” I had never before experienced such generosity and awareness of what I might be experiencing, from a stranger.

We were road weary and starving, so we headed over to the Smoothie Shop. I had never had a smoothie before. I was curious.

The Smoothie Shop was quietly humming with activity. It seemed as if everyone had a job to do, even the patrons.  Everyone seemed to know one another.  People were passing food to one another, and if you were in the back of the crowd at the counter, if your food was ready, it got handed overhead to you, one person to the next. “Thanks, man,” was the word in the air.  Blenders whirred.  Big thick drinks were being served up. “Mmmmmm.” was the other word in the air.

The smells were delicious.  Bread.  Bananas. Peanut Butter.

I had an avocado and Monterey jack and alfalfa sprouts, on thick slices of homemade whole wheat, with a strawberry smoothie. 

We drove up to Mt. Bonnell that evening, to the houses at the curvy, downhill crook in the road. A freshwater creek ran behind the rental “duplexes”, far below the white limestone overhanging cliff.  We met Bubba (yes, that’s his real name ) and Babs, and Debbie and John, and a kid from Lubbock.  Some were college students at the University, but more studious, less sports minded, than the Horns that we had encountered on Guadalupe.  Some were shop owners, like Bill. Some were just plain old Good People.

There were a couple of dogs that belonged to everybody… Old Timer, who wasn’t old, but had lived there longer than any of the people, and Crystal, who nobody could care for because she was grouchy and smelled bad because nobody could care for her because she was grouchy. And a couple of cats.

Old Timer

I was introduced to Dr. Bronner’s Peppermint Castile Soap when  given the privilege of taking an indoor hot water shower at Babs side of the duplex. We smoked and joked with these Good People well into the night.  There was plenty of ‘lying’ to one another, in a good natured way, talk about the exam next week, or what was for sale at the store, why Lubbock was so flat.   We talked a bit about us, and what we were doing, and where we were going, and why.

“I’m looking for work in California.” was what Mike said.  It was the first that I had heard of it.  I was glad to know.

I was sad to know, too, because, so far,  I really liked Austin. I would have found it very easy to not leave.

It stayed light so very late there in Austin, in the winter. By five in the evening in the North, we all would have been huddled inside, waiting out the cold night. Here, at Mt. Bonnell, surrounded by Good People, it felt like some sort of forever summer, watching the last glow of the sundown turn burnt orange.

Austin Architecture

Historic Landscaping

http://www.tcoletribalrugs.com/article10JA.html

traje en Guatemala

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